We have a list at the bottom of the article that will show you what you need to get your system up and running smoothly and quickly.
So how does cycling a new system work? First you need a source of ammonia that is clear of contaminants that would be harmful to the system in any way or harmful to us humans when we consume the produce or fish from the system.
"Fish-Less" cycling is tried and true very easy and avoids killing fish.
We use a pure form of ammonium to accomplish this. It is very cheap and highly trusted to do the job with out killing any fish nor risking contamination of our new system with disease, parasites or unwanted chemicals. It is called "True Fake Fish", and it is perfect for fish-less cycling or for supplying your system with ammonia if for any reason you lose all your fish, due to catastrophic failure in the system or the harvesting of fish. You can click any underlined words to learn more about that product.
Steps in "Fish-Less" cycling are as follows.
- Have a viable system with good clean water.
- You need a test kit for monitoring the levels in your system. We recommend the API Masters Test Kit For Freshwater.
- Make sure you do not have chlorine or chloramines in the water, if you do, this product will help you remove them quickly and safely. "True Sodium Thiosulfate" is trusted by prized Koi producers to be safe and quick in removing these chemicals from the water.
- Have air and water pumps running.
- Insure you have no water leaks.
- Now is the perfect time to get your PH where you want it and you can do so quickly, as there is nothing living in the system that you could harm. We shoot for a range of 6.6 to 7.5 PH. Some recommend 6.5 to 6.8, but everything will do fine in the 6.6 to 7.5 range unless you are running a commercial system.
- Also pre-treat your water to the desired PH range in a tank before you top up your system. This allows you to maintain your desired PH level much easier down the road.
- Add "True Fake Fish" as directed in the instructions to get the system water up to 2.0-3.0 PPM ammonia in the water, we recommend you shoot for 2.0 PPM. Do not exceed 5.0 PPM, if you do it will sterilize the system.
- Test your water daily to monitor the ammonia level as well as the nitrite level.
- When the ammonia level drops below 2.0 PPM add more "Fake-Fish".
- When you start to see nitrite levels come up, that means that your bacteria are starting to colonize the bio filters.
- After you start to see nitrite in the system, start testing for nitrate as well.
- So at this point three test per day, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
- At some point, in most cases, the nitrite will spike, if you had live fish in the system when this occurs, it would be the most dangerous time for the fish during cycling a system.
- Later you will notice that when you add "Fake Fish" to bring the system up to 2.0-3.0 PPM, it will be at or near 0 PPM the next day.
- Your nitrite will fall off to or near 0 PPM a short time after the nitrite spike.
- Then you will see your nitrate start to level out, your goal should be between 10 PPM and 80 PPM. If you are lower you will be OK. If you are above 80 PPM, the nitrate will actually lock itself out causing the plants to suffer and at some point the fish will suffer due to high rates of nitrate.
- One thing we recommend is that you add plants right off, don't wait for the cycling of the system to happen. The plants are part of the eco system, and though they will suffer a bit, they will help the system along and it is much more fun to have some growth happening right off the bat rather than waiting 4-8 weeks. There are things you can do to help the plants grow much better, and we cover that in another article.